USB port replacement
Front or rear port stopped working.
The console starts up normally and the TV insists there's nothing there. That's the HDMI port, and it's the single most common thing we see on Xbox.
It goes when the cable gets knocked or trodden on while it's plugged in. The connector shifts and lifts off its solder pads, and because it's soldered to the board there's no plug-in replacement.
The port sits on pads roughly the width of a hair. Getting the damaged one off without lifting those pads is the whole job — anyone can melt a connector off, but doing it without wrecking what's underneath takes a hot-air station and a lot of practice.
If pads have already torn, they get rebuilt before the new port goes on. That's the step that separates a repair that lasts from one that fails in a month.
A bit more fiddly to get into because everything's packed tighter, but it's the same repair and the same price bracket.
It can be, and we'd rather find that out than take your money. Try another cable and another input first — if it's still dead, bring it down.
Same day, usually. An HDMI port is basic soldering for us — it is the dead-board jobs that take a few days, not this.
Front or rear port stopped working.
Controller only charges at a certain angle.
Dead, or it powers up for a second and quits.
Loud, hot, or shutting down mid-session.
Grinding, ejecting, or a disc stuck inside.
Aim drifts, sticky buttons, dead triggers.
$45 diagnostic — credited to the repair, and we'll tell you straight if it's the console rather than the port.
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