Xbox One with an external brick
The power brick is a well-known failure and often the whole problem. It's the cheapest outcome in the shop, and we'll check it before anything else.
Where the power comes from decides how big this job is, and it depends which Xbox you own. That's the first thing we work out.
Either way the diagnostic is $45, credited to the repair, and you get a real number before anything happens.
The power brick is a well-known failure and often the whole problem. It's the cheapest outcome in the shop, and we'll check it before anything else.
The supply is built into the console, so a dead one means testing the internal PSU and the board's power rails. More work, still very repairable.
Not necessarily — it depends what let go and what it took with it. Don't power it up again, and bring it down as it is.
You'll still get an honest account of your options rather than a guess at a repair, and you only pay the $45 diagnostic.
Most repairs have a price you can get online in seconds. This one doesn't, because nobody can tell you what a dead board needs without opening it — and a shop that quotes you a number over the phone is guessing.
So the diagnostic is $45, and it comes off the price of the repair if you approve it. If you decide not to go ahead, you've paid $45 for a real answer about your device instead of a guess.
Timing: most repairs leave the same day, port work included. Faults like this one are the exception — they have to be traced before they can be quoted, so it is usually one to three days.
Been near liquid at any point? Say so — it changes where we look first, and water-damage repair explains what that job involves.
Console runs, TV gets nothing.
Front or rear port stopped working.
Controller only charges at a certain angle.
Loud, hot, or shutting down mid-session.
Grinding, ejecting, or a disc stuck inside.
Aim drifts, sticky buttons, dead triggers.
$45 diagnostic — credited to the repair. If it's just the power brick, that's a very good day.
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