Joy-Con drift repair
Menus scroll on their own. The classic.
A completely dead Switch is a board fault, and there's a strong favourite for the cause: a third-party dock that pushed the wrong voltage down the USB-C line and took out the charging chip.
That chip is replaceable, and so is most of what sits around it. Nintendo's route is to replace the console; ours is to fix the component.
No. Manufacturer support replaces at console or board level because that's what their process offers — it isn't a judgement about whether the fault is fixable. Component-level repair is a different service.
Often. Tell us that's the priority when you drop it off and we'll plan the work around it.
Most repairs have a price you can get online in seconds. This one doesn't, because nobody can tell you what a dead board needs without opening it — and a shop that quotes you a number over the phone is guessing.
So the diagnostic is $45, and it comes off the price of the repair if you approve it. If you decide not to go ahead, you've paid $45 for a real answer about your device instead of a guess.
Timing: most repairs leave the same day, port work included. Faults like this one are the exception — they have to be traced before they can be quoted, so it is usually one to three days.
Been near liquid at any point? Say so — it changes where we look first, and water-damage repair explains what that job involves.
Menus scroll on their own. The classic.
Won't charge, won't dock, or a cheap dock got it.
Cracked glass — and OLED is a different job.
An hour of handheld and it's dead.
Charges in the dock but the TV shows nothing.
$45 diagnostic — credited to the repair — and if a dock did it, that's usually repairable.
Book a diagnostic →